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Posts Tagged ‘Chemicals’

Lantern Battery Salvage

March 25, 2010 2 comments

The other day I found a six-volt lantern battery and decided to see what I could salvage from it. After doing some research, I learned that lantern batteries are made of four long F-cells that are individually composed of a carbon core, a large quantity of manganese dioxide mixed with either ammonium chloride or zinc chloride, and lastly a paper sheath. Sometimes each battery will be individually cased in zinc but this was not the case for me.

1. I first cut off the top with a Dremel Tool to reveal the F-cells. They were fit in pretty tightly, so I had to do four more cuts down the sides in order to slip them out.

2. I then pulled out the carbon rods and peeled back the paper cover to reveal the manganese dioxide.

3.  Finally I added water to the manganese dioxide to dissolve the electrolyte and decanted into a filter to dispose of the separate them. You could keep the electrolyte, but I don’t know what it could be used for.

From this I got four black carbon electrodes and a large quantity of manganese dioxide. Any zinc collected might be worth saving as an electrode.

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How to Make Aluminum Powder

January 10, 2010 3 comments

Aluminum  Powder is an ingredient in thermite and when ground fine enough becomes a flash powder that could demolish a building in seconds. Photographers use it to create a bright light for a picture, wood workers use it to fill joints, and aluminum powder was even what the tin man used as makeup.

Supplies

The supplies for this one are easy, just aluminum and something to grind it in. The most common source of aluminum is foil, but this isn’t always the cheapest. Other sources include drink cans, aluminum pots and pans or even heat syncs off of computers; it doesn’t really matter what alloy of aluminum. If you’re out of ideas, try taking a trip to the dump. The blender is usually more expensive and difficult to find. Whether you use a two-hundred dollar blender or a ten-dollar coffee grinder, it doesn’t really matter. Keep in mind that you get what you paid for and you will have to be a lot nicer to a cheaper blender and it will probably break sooner. There are alternatives to a blender like using a bench grinder or a fine grit power sander. Here are plans for one such alternative. The result from this may be finer or coarser and you should decide for yourself what works best.

1. No matter what size blender you got, the blades are usually small and you will have to make your aluminum fit. For foil, this means tearing it into ribbons, but for something thicker you will probably have to get out some tin snips. If the blades jam up, it puts stress on the joint and the motor-both of which will eventually break. Don’t take the chance and use small pieces of aluminum. Only use something thicker than an aluminum can if you’re very confident- foil isn’t expensive, but blenders are and replacing them gets old fast.

2. The longer you blend it, the finer the powder will be. You will need to continually add more, especially at the beginning, because the volume decreases and the powder won’t reach the bottom of the blades. A blender won’t ever give you particles smaller than that of fine sand. If you intend to use it for anything other than rough thermite then you will have to ball mill it.

3. Aluminum oxidizes on contact with oxygen and blending it uncovers new surfaces. When you open the lid, oxygen pours in, and if the powder oxidizes fast enough, then it will get hot enough to ignite. To avoid this, open the lid at least every ten to fifteen minutes. Make sure you mill your aluminum in a well-ventilates area and let the powder settle before you open the lid; aluminum is poisonous and breathing it in is not a good idea.

4. Store in a cool dry place; I personally suggest glass jars of some kind.

If you are lazy, and or have the money for it, you can also buy aluminum powder at Skylighter, or on e-Bay. e-Bay will be cheaper, but you won’t always find powder of the same size or purity, also make sure that you’re buying from a trusted vendor.

Also, here is an interesting video demonstration of thermite, and if you’re interested in trying a different type of thermite, try here.

How to Make Iron Oxide (Rust)

January 1, 2010 1 comment

Rust is a valuable ingredient in many pyrotechnic recipes, mainly thermite, but it can also be added to other mixtures as an oxidizer. In any case it might be useful to have a jar on hand, if you can’t think of anything more interesting to do with it; you can always paint with it.

Supplies

First, you need DC current. You can get this from car battery chargers, toy car chargers, batteries, or you can buy one. The higher the amps, the faster the process will work, but be careful, you don’t want that current going through you. Next you need some iron or steel. This is easy enough to come by, but the local dump is an especially good source of stock metal. The final supplies are salt water a tub and a location outside with an outlet.

  1. Put the pieces of iron on opposite sides of the tube and make sure that they’re not touching. The iron will only rust on one side, so it is advisable to put most of it on that side.
  2. Add water as high as you can and still leave some metal exposed (if the leads are underwater then they’ll rust just as fast as the iron).
  3. Add a couple tablespoons of salt to the water and stir it in (more salt will work better, but it will also contaminate your rust more).
  4. Put the negative lead on the side with less metal. If you’re not sure which lead is negative, turn on the electricity. The negative lead should bubble more.
  5. Leave it running in a well ventilated area because it gives off chlorine gas. The longer you leave it running the more rust you will get, be patient. If the temperature is higher then it will rust faster, but heating it is too impractical for most people.
  6. When you are done, pour off excess liquid. This will get rid of some of the dissolved salt; to further purify: add water, let settle, and repeat. After this, heat it gently until dry.
  7. Use a mortar and pestle or a bowl and spoon to grind up you’re newly made iron oxide. It shouldn’t be very difficult, rust is quite soft. Put the iron oxide through a sieve to pull out the larger chunks of un-oxidized iron that flaked off.
  8. Once you are finished you can store it in a cool dry place-I prefer cleaned out tomato sauce jars. Congratulate yourself on a job well done, you just became more self-reliant.

What you are essentially doing is electrolysis-using electricity to break the covalent bonds of the H2O into Hydrogen and Oxygen. If you wish, you can collect the resulting gasses. Hydrogen will form at the negative lead and oxygen at the positive. Hydrogen will be the lead that bubbles more since there are twice as many hydrogen atoms in a molecule of H2O. Since you used sodium chloride (salt) as an electrolyte the oxygen will be contaminated with chlorine, but the hydrogen will be pure.

If you don’t have the patience to wait for iron to rust, than there are alternative methods. This doesn’t have a high yield, but it’s faster than buying your own if you have some steel wool around. Just pass a flame over your steel wool and you will have a black powder. This will work just as well, although you will have to burn a lot in order to get enough. You can also buy iron oxide at e-Bay or skylighter.